5 Things to Check on Every Cabinet Refinishing Bid

When you have three cabinet refinishing bids in hand, they probably look similar on paper. Different numbers, similar scope descriptions. The differences that determine whether your finish lasts three years or fifteen are rarely spelled out in the quote itself. Here is what to ask and verify before you decide.

1. Italian 2K Polyurethane — Not Regular Paint

Most bids skip Italian 2K polyurethane — that is your first red flag for a finish that will not last. Standard latex or alkyd paint is what most general painters use on cabinets because it is the same product they use on walls. It dries by evaporation, not chemical reaction, and the result softens under heat, yellows under UV, and chips around hardware within 2-3 years on a kitchen.

Italian 2K polyurethane is a two-component catalyzed system — the resin and hardener undergo a chemical reaction when mixed that produces a permanent thermoset polymer. It does not re-soften, does not yellow, and does not chip from daily contact. Ask directly: what is the topcoat product and system? If the answer is paint, latex, or alkyd, the finish will not hold up. No brushed frames or roller marks with proper 2K — everything sprays for a seamless result.

2. A 5-Year Written Warranty

Verbal promises mean nothing. Insist on a 5-year written warranty covering finish failure, adhesion issues, and peeling. Ties the contractor to the work with their signature on paper. A warranty backed by Italian 2K polyurethane is credible because the chemistry supports it. A 1-year verbal warranty on latex paint is not a warranty — it is a hedge.

Ask to see the warranty document before signing anything. It should specify what is covered, what is excluded, how to file a claim, and the duration. A contractor who cannot produce a written warranty is not confident in the longevity of their work.

3. HEPA-Vacuumed Sanding in Prep

Sanding generates fine dust. Where that dust goes matters more than most homeowners realize. Uncontrolled sanding sends particles through your home and — critically — into the cabinet surfaces before topcoats go on. Contaminated surfaces are a direct cause of adhesion failure. HEPA-vacuumed sanding in prep means industrial vacuums connected directly to the sander, pulling dust at the source.

Ask specifically: do you vacuum at the sander during sanding? Some contractors say they control dust and mean they clean up after. That is not the same thing. Point-source capture during sanding is the correct method. HEPA-vacuumed sanding in prep means no dust embedded under your new finish.

4. Sealed Negative-Pressure Containment for Finishing

Spraying Italian 2K polyurethane without containment deposits overspray in your home and contaminating particles into the wet coating. Sealed negative-pressure containment means plastic barrier walls around the work area, sealed edges, and a system that pulls air out through HEPA filters — creating lower pressure inside than outside. Anything that moves, moves inward. Overspray stays locked in.

Ask: do you build full containment barriers with negative pressure during spray work? A contractor who sprays without containment is cutting a step that protects both your home and the finish quality. Your kitchen stays livable during the project when containment is done correctly.

5. Owner On Every Job — CSLB #1015608 Since 2016

Tyler Fowler is on every job, backed by CSLB #1015608 since 2016 — no subs, no excuses. Who is actually doing the work? The contractor who gave you the estimate, or a crew that changes project to project? Owner-operated means the person whose business reputation is on the line is physically on your job. References alone are not enough — verify the license number at cslb.ca.gov and ask directly who will be on-site.

Owner-operated also matters for the warranty. If something goes wrong three years later, you want to be calling a person whose name is on the business — not a franchise customer service department or a subcontractor who has moved on.